After printing one of the mokume pieces with normal transparent binder, I left it to dry and then opened the pleats out flat. At regular intervals I then stitched sets of the pleats together and left other pleats ungathered, removing the original thread used to pull the pleats together.
I’m trying to construct a 3D structure here, using stitch for structure rather than decoration, but the cotton I used for printing is quite soft, with a loose weave.
I think I will have to experiment with crisper cloth, with the pleats more spread out when printing so that more binder reaches the fabric, to give more body.
Flextiles 
or, perhaps make a stiffer structure underneath, that will support your innovative ideas. Timtex or super thick felt might work? I love how your creative mind experiments and adapts traditional processes. Brilliant. Good luck.
Chimo,
Jennifer